Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cafe. Show all posts

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Cafes I Have Known: Greece Editon


I made lovely new friends in Greece between fits of ruin and museum hopping.

Boo’s Café – Athens, Mainland Greece

When I was a child, my parents nicknamed me, “Boo,” for my numerous, good-natured attempts to startle and scare them.

So when I came to Athens and saw the sign for “Boo’s Café” on the street behind my hotel, I felt it was a good omen.

Sipping a Greek coffee at Boo's

The atmosphere for this stony lair is surprisingly out in the open. Each of the windows pivots to become a door on to the street. The dark antique rosewood chairs for patrons to sit in are playfully mismatched.  

High color oil paintings, beaded mannequins, leaded glass, and other over-the-top props cover every wall.

A short walk from the hotels on Omonoia Square, (Sarri Street between Epikourou and Kreizi) Boo’s is primarily an after-dark place. Weekend nights are just right!

Their daytime patrons are theater district managers, art and furniture sales people who come in for a hit of Greek coffee and a wrap and then dash. Tourists linger over postcards and biscuits.

Boo’s doesn’t have a website and they don’t have Wi-Fi. They aren’t even listed on Google Maps. 

There are plenty of places in Athens that do have those features. My experience has shown that such serviceable locations often have less character.

So make a friend and hunt out for Boo's without your devices for a change!


Yankos Café – Adamas, Milos

On the touristy island of Milos, Yankos is easy to spot. It's on the East end of the pier. 

Two huge illuminated spheres with dancing shadows spotted from a distance turn out to be pedastaled fishbowls flanking their entrance.

While that gimmick makes them hard to mistake, the basics of Yankos are top notch.

It’s a place to center oneself and get work done. There are a half-dozen laptops open at any time many of which belong to locals.

I am in love with the feeling of being constantly adrift at Yankos. Gauze curtains blow like sails, dial lamps loll like suns. White sofas crest against blue canvas chairs connecting you to the surf and surrounding sea.

Fried cheese. Some poor little cow had to push all that out!

I returned for meals at Yankos based on the food and exceptional (multi-lingual!) service.

Breakfast is the big meal on Milos and there are many local specialities worth trying.  I recommend 
a the watermelon pie, a strudel-like pastry topped with candied watermelon rind.

Though I am eating vegan now, I ate copious amounts of fried cheese while I was in Greece. The wedge of locally sourced cow proteins at Yankos was the size of my head with whole tomatoes and lemon for garnish. These are generous folks.




Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Cafes I Have Known: Tennessee Edition


When I land in a new town, the first things I look for are a great cafe and a great used bookstore. 

Here are two of my picks to take the guesswork out of cafe hopping on your next visit to Nashville or Knoxville.



Visiting the Ryman Auditorium in Tennessee was a dream come true. 

Frothy Monkey - Nashville

A pleasant bike ride from downtown, the Frothy Monkey is the go-to hangout for Belmont University students and organic food connoisseurs from the nearby Hillsboro and Melrose neighborhoods.

I chanced there when I was couch surfing around the block, near Dolly Parton’s motor coach livery.

I achieved total brain freeze from the strong iced coffee and achieved total aesthetic piety from their locally sourced salads.

My songwriter hosts were giddy to receive a bag of FM’s espresso roast as a parting gift.

Yours Truly preparing for another day of scaring the natives.

Best feature: a variety of micro-areas within the two adjoined ranch-style structures allows for sunny, shady, booth, and bistro style table hopping. 


Old City Java – Knoxville

Old City Java's Direct Trade coffee is widely regarded as the best coffee in Knox. They are located in a nostalgic part of town near the railroad tracks. 

The wow-inducing environment includes reclaimed windows and doors for wall paneling, exposed brick bearing walls, and an inverted bay window façade.

They don’t even have to try.

This is probably the reason their “coming-soon” website is so laughably bad. On the home page, the designer takes name credit for its non-existent proprietary content with a copyright date that has been auto-updating since 2010.

 

Is that an angel in my cup or is Knoxville just glad to see me?

Over several visits, I had the satisfying hummus plate.  When I got stuck in my work on the Great American Novel,  the painted ceiling, inspired by Van Gogh’s “Stary Night, ” kick-started my daydreaming again. 


Saturday, May 14, 2011

Edinburgh Elephant House Adventure

The entrance to Elephant House, a cafe just off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, Scotland. It is the birthplace of the Harry Potter books.

J.K. Rowling inspires me.

I knew she was all right when evangelicals began trying to ban her books in American libraries.

When her wealth began to rival that of the Queen of England, she became the hero of all writers.

The crowd inside the Elephant House. Table 10, Rowling's favorite, is frequently reserved.

We no longer have to apologize for spending long hours in solitude, or for fits of relative poverty. The cost-benefit analysis of our souls has been permanently silenced.

Edinburgh, Scotland is vividly Rowling’s inspiration. The Medieval roots of witchcraft, British class stratification, and the value of experiential education play themselves out daily in this landscape of castles, old trade streets, and universities.

Yours Truly and my friend budding Hungarian writer and translator Bence Molnar.

As the staff will share with you, Rowling never intended on renewing the writer’s relationship to the cafe. Elephant House was the only public place in Edinburgh she could keep her infant daughter from crying.

Children's drawings of elephants near the cafe counter.

Trophy cases in the cafe are arrayed with elephants: cut of onyx, carved of wood, stuffed with cotton. The music in the cafe is typically smooth jazz or bright, classical piano work.

Fan art, scribbled on napkins or bits of paper by children, is posted on a wall with Harry Potter and J.K. Rowling notices just to the left.

The picture windows at the back catch the south east side of Edinburgh Castle. You can also catch a sliver of Greyfriar’s Kirk graveyard.