Showing posts with label Milos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Milos. Show all posts

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Cafes I Have Known: Greece Editon


I made lovely new friends in Greece between fits of ruin and museum hopping.

Boo’s Café – Athens, Mainland Greece

When I was a child, my parents nicknamed me, “Boo,” for my numerous, good-natured attempts to startle and scare them.

So when I came to Athens and saw the sign for “Boo’s Café” on the street behind my hotel, I felt it was a good omen.

Sipping a Greek coffee at Boo's

The atmosphere for this stony lair is surprisingly out in the open. Each of the windows pivots to become a door on to the street. The dark antique rosewood chairs for patrons to sit in are playfully mismatched.  

High color oil paintings, beaded mannequins, leaded glass, and other over-the-top props cover every wall.

A short walk from the hotels on Omonoia Square, (Sarri Street between Epikourou and Kreizi) Boo’s is primarily an after-dark place. Weekend nights are just right!

Their daytime patrons are theater district managers, art and furniture sales people who come in for a hit of Greek coffee and a wrap and then dash. Tourists linger over postcards and biscuits.

Boo’s doesn’t have a website and they don’t have Wi-Fi. They aren’t even listed on Google Maps. 

There are plenty of places in Athens that do have those features. My experience has shown that such serviceable locations often have less character.

So make a friend and hunt out for Boo's without your devices for a change!


Yankos Café – Adamas, Milos

On the touristy island of Milos, Yankos is easy to spot. It's on the East end of the pier. 

Two huge illuminated spheres with dancing shadows spotted from a distance turn out to be pedastaled fishbowls flanking their entrance.

While that gimmick makes them hard to mistake, the basics of Yankos are top notch.

It’s a place to center oneself and get work done. There are a half-dozen laptops open at any time many of which belong to locals.

I am in love with the feeling of being constantly adrift at Yankos. Gauze curtains blow like sails, dial lamps loll like suns. White sofas crest against blue canvas chairs connecting you to the surf and surrounding sea.

Fried cheese. Some poor little cow had to push all that out!

I returned for meals at Yankos based on the food and exceptional (multi-lingual!) service.

Breakfast is the big meal on Milos and there are many local specialities worth trying.  I recommend 
a the watermelon pie, a strudel-like pastry topped with candied watermelon rind.

Though I am eating vegan now, I ate copious amounts of fried cheese while I was in Greece. The wedge of locally sourced cow proteins at Yankos was the size of my head with whole tomatoes and lemon for garnish. These are generous folks.




Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Milos Greece Adventure Pics

The mountainside town of Trypiti on Milos


In front of the black lava rock tower of the ancient theater of Milos near where the Venus De Milos was discovered.


A look down at the ancient theater from a nearby cliffside, just beyond this is the Mirtoon Sea

The port city of Adamas on Milos where I stayed for two nights

Milos Greece Adventure

Ships bobbing in the port city of Adamas on the island of Milos


I left Serifos two days ago on a rainy afternoon, attempting to make the best of my remaining days in Greece with some island-by-island adventure.


I jumped on board the ferry for Milos, original home of the Venus de Milo, just in time to depart. The ride was smooth, about an hour and a half long, with a brief stop on the island of Sifnos.


The home I stayed in on Serifos had a great deal of fine pottery from Sifnos including a few beautiful blue bowls.


Upon landing in Adamas, a woman from town wandering the port asked me if I wanted a room. Her name was Nina. When I told her I was from San Francisco, she informed me she had relatives there.


I was led to a handsome small apartment building with rooms nested on three floors. Past flanks of black and white cats, I climbed the stairs.


The room was comfortable and clean with a refrigerator full of peas and bread and a hot pot. A gorgeous hand blown poppy-flower shaped fixture hung above the bed, with drizzles of gold paint in cross-hatch patterns. A matching bamboo loveseat and couch with a geometric patern in browns and greens from the 1960s. Other cozying elements included crocheted cozys and doilies.


It was maybe only the fifth night this year I’ve slept with a pillow that wasn’t meant for a plane. And probably one of the few in the last week where I slept for more than an hour or two.


The water was not potable, however, it was plentiful. It was tepid enough I could take a shower without shivering.


The port in Adamas was brightly lit against the blue water. I walked past bobbing boats to catch the Tripyti Road.


The vegetation here is a little different than in Serifos. Some beautiful red berries plants I could not quickly identify, gave off a sweet apple and rose smell. Sage and eucalyptus I broke off in pieces and inhaled.


Tripyti is a small town, like many others in Greece, with narrow streets and cafes and outdoor shops.


Guidance may vary during the tourist season. I found a single open market just past the main road. It took me close to an hour!


I was pleased to find Orangeade and Smarties, a British candy I enjoyed when I first came to Europe in my teens.


Just past is the Tripyti Theater, a lava rock and marble beauty, facing the Mirtoon Sea.


I imagined what it would be like addressing a group of people on the floor of the ampitheater.


I sat on some of the old marble columns and touched rocks and trees all along the road to leave a bit of my energy with Milos.