Old Town Quito Adventure

Mounted swordsman preparing for the weekly Changing of the Guard.

The first thing I notice hiking around hilly Old Town Quito is that everyone has a dog.

Most are big dogs. Most will not be attending obedience school.

The dogs in Old Town bark all day and all night at car alarms, ambulances, and, of course, the barking of other dogs.

The neighborhood of La Ronda was home to poets and other artists during the Modern period.

These dogs are generally working as guardians. They are well fed and attended. The social function of companion animals is just different for Quiteños than what U.S. citizens are used to.

The second thing I notice is lots of police.

There are two or three uniformed officers at every plaza or major intersection.

On the balcony of the apartment where I am staying in La Ronda.

Another surprising fixture downtown: men wandering about selling coca leaf tea.

You cannot find matte de coca tea at the two chain grocery stores in Old Town, but it is entirely legal to purchase and enjoy throughout South America.

It is touted as a cure for altitude sickness. Quito is 2850 meters above sea level. 

To put that into perspective,  Denver, in my home state of Colorado, is 1609 meters above sea level! 

A statue of the Virgin Mary watches over Old Town from El Panecillo.

Things commonly found in abundance in Spanish Colonial capitols are exceptionally well preserved and functional in Quito's Old Town. 

The architectural influence is deep: Stone churches, elaborately carved wooden doors, red tile roofs.

One of Old Town's many churches (San Augustin) which mix local and Spanish elements.

Nearly every available archway or shelter is occupied by a "tienda" or little store. Baked goods, produce, yarns, and durable items are all sold in different tiendas.

There are scads of endearing lunch places, typically run by families. They are affordable, and filled with locals.

I don’t know how the Quiteños decide!

Yours Truly in Plaza Grande for the Changing of the Guard

The big event weekly in Old Town is The Changing of the Guard on Monday mornings at 11 am.

Unlike similar ceremonies in other world capitols, the President of Ecuador is regularly present for the event, waving from the long balcony at the top of the Presidential Palace.

In addition to swordsmen on horseback and pikemen, a marching band plays the national anthem and a choir of schoolboys sings along.

It is a tribute to the people of Ecuador that other nations regard it as stable even though it has had a major domestic war in the last 25 years and an awkward coup attempt as recently as 2010. 

With all the upheaval in Ecuador's history, the regulating contribution of an event like this to the national psyche is estimable!