Showing posts with label Athens. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Athens. Show all posts

Saturday, March 31, 2012

Cafes I Have Known: Greece Editon


I made lovely new friends in Greece between fits of ruin and museum hopping.

Boo’s Café – Athens, Mainland Greece

When I was a child, my parents nicknamed me, “Boo,” for my numerous, good-natured attempts to startle and scare them.

So when I came to Athens and saw the sign for “Boo’s Café” on the street behind my hotel, I felt it was a good omen.

Sipping a Greek coffee at Boo's

The atmosphere for this stony lair is surprisingly out in the open. Each of the windows pivots to become a door on to the street. The dark antique rosewood chairs for patrons to sit in are playfully mismatched.  

High color oil paintings, beaded mannequins, leaded glass, and other over-the-top props cover every wall.

A short walk from the hotels on Omonoia Square, (Sarri Street between Epikourou and Kreizi) Boo’s is primarily an after-dark place. Weekend nights are just right!

Their daytime patrons are theater district managers, art and furniture sales people who come in for a hit of Greek coffee and a wrap and then dash. Tourists linger over postcards and biscuits.

Boo’s doesn’t have a website and they don’t have Wi-Fi. They aren’t even listed on Google Maps. 

There are plenty of places in Athens that do have those features. My experience has shown that such serviceable locations often have less character.

So make a friend and hunt out for Boo's without your devices for a change!


Yankos Café – Adamas, Milos

On the touristy island of Milos, Yankos is easy to spot. It's on the East end of the pier. 

Two huge illuminated spheres with dancing shadows spotted from a distance turn out to be pedastaled fishbowls flanking their entrance.

While that gimmick makes them hard to mistake, the basics of Yankos are top notch.

It’s a place to center oneself and get work done. There are a half-dozen laptops open at any time many of which belong to locals.

I am in love with the feeling of being constantly adrift at Yankos. Gauze curtains blow like sails, dial lamps loll like suns. White sofas crest against blue canvas chairs connecting you to the surf and surrounding sea.

Fried cheese. Some poor little cow had to push all that out!

I returned for meals at Yankos based on the food and exceptional (multi-lingual!) service.

Breakfast is the big meal on Milos and there are many local specialities worth trying.  I recommend 
a the watermelon pie, a strudel-like pastry topped with candied watermelon rind.

Though I am eating vegan now, I ate copious amounts of fried cheese while I was in Greece. The wedge of locally sourced cow proteins at Yankos was the size of my head with whole tomatoes and lemon for garnish. These are generous folks.




Tuesday, November 23, 2010

Athens Adventures Pics


A South view of the arcades of the Odeum of Herodes Atticus

Odeum of Herodes Atticus preparing for a concert. The black bags are filled with cushions for the marble seats. The entire ampitheater is marble.


A Roman bath near the National Gardens. Workers were digging a vent for the subway when they discovered it!



The Temple of Zeus. You can see how the temple's upper structure modeled a fishbone. The columns were stacked up like the vertebra of a spine, which you can see from the one laid out on the ground.




Me at the temple of Athena on the Acropolis grounds.

On one of the rocks overlooking the Odeum of Herodes Atticus


At Boo's Cafe. A gay hangout near my hotel auspiciously bearing my childhood nickname!


The Parthenon. You can see construction cranes. One of the facades is being reconstructed.

The Temple of Athena

A wide view of the Acropolis. Hard to believe this is right in the middle of Athens!

A crowd of tourists roaming the Acropolis.

The Sunday convocation at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

The changing of the guard in Sunday dress whites. The weekday garments are brown.

Athens Adventures

posing with one of the guards at Athens' Tomb of the Unknown Soldier


On my recent trip to Greece, I spent three days in Athens on either end of my journey.


On both ocassions, my local guide was a couchsurfing.com buddy, George-Michael. The first night, he led me from my hotel near Omonia square to his favorite hangout near Athens’ University.


We spent the evening chatting with two of his friends at a hookah bar.


I learned that the park just beyond the awning had once been overrun with substance abusers. A neighborhood socialist organization decided to reclaim the park by meeting there every night. The park was now populated by students and seniors, sipping sodas and eating ice cream.


The next evening, George walked me past the Acropolis. A large pedestrian walkway forms a semi-circle on the site’s south side. There were many Atheneas strolling about or eating a late meal at one of the outdoor restaurants. Quite a few people were on top of the Acropolis rocks listening to a Croatian singer perform in the Odeum of Herodes Atticus, a Roman-era ampitheater exposed to the elements.


George showed me the place overlooking the Agora where he goes to meditate. He also showed me the Gasia, a cosmopolitain gay neighborhood to the north.


I explored the Parthenon, The Temple of Zeus, and the National Archeology Museum with my friend Vivian who I ran into strolling the ruins Sunday afternoon.


We were excited to discover a gay cafe near my hotel. Boo’s Cafe, was auspiciously given my childhood nickname! The proprietors filled it with antique rosewood chairs, subtle lighting, oil paintings, and lots of color to pop against the dark walls. I returned to Boo’s several times.


I saw the changing of the guard twice - once during the week and the hour-long convocation featuring all the guards on Sunday at 10 am.


The slow awkward step that makes the guards look so ridiculous when they are leaving their posts is very intimidating when it is sped up for the Sunday parade.


Many people asked me if I suffered at all because of the numerous strikes. The very last day I did.


The subway workers between Athens and the airport were on strike. I found out on the way to the airport! I had to stay an extra night in Athens because of the mess.