The Edible Egilsay Farm Adventure in Orkney, Scotland

A view from the bunkhouse of the Edible Egilsay farm.

This far north, the sun doesn’t set in summer, it moves elliptically out to sea and hums under the horizon. The night I arrive,  an enormous full moon is setting off the inky blue.

Tingwall is where I’m to meet the Egilsay (pronounced Eagle-see), ferry at 8 am.

I elect to walk, but fail to account for the maps distortion. The distances north and south on the map are actually two times the East/West distances!

Your's Truly on mainland Orkney, the gateway to Egilsay.

Running up empty roads at 7:45 am,  I’m at least two miles from the pier. Luckily for me, a local handyman named Roger, the first car I’ve seen since 3 am, picks me up as I hitchhike. I arrive before the ferry docks.

At the other side, Alice is present to greet me.

She’s already been in the bunkhouse for a month. Already, the peas are coming up!

Alice stands guard on the road to the Maeness farm.

For the next few days, I too will be growing food as part of the Edible Egilsay project, a permaculture farm.  The farm provides food for attendees of the like-located Orkney Solstice celebration.

Alice says they are hoping to make 200 meals for festival goers from the farm's produce. We plant beet root and dig up rocks. We water everything carefully.

Harvey, the island’s pet llama, lopes around the premises, inspecting our work.

Harvey wandering the grounds.

The Orkney Solstice Festival began when Bazil Sansom decided the disused part of his family's farm would make an idea locale for a small summer event.

Mainland Orkney already had history minded endeavors scheduled at Maeshowe and other Neolithic sites. The Orkney Folk Festival, while a change from typical summer festival genres, had a staid, predictable feel.

Also, with Brits saving up hundreds of pounds each year to be deafened for days on end at music industry engines like Glastonbury and Rockness, there was demand for non-corporate options.

Orkney Solstice channels the spirit of Burning Man – filled with D.I.Y. entertainment and a homey feel. "No one pays and no one gets paid but everybody shares something."

History marks Egilsay as the location for the legend of St. Magnus. This church commemorates the spot where he was martyred.

His partners in the continuing effort to provide this space are the indefatigable Roz Corbett and Alice Warren. Throughout the year, the raise awareness for the festival and their permaculture project with a series of fundraisers. 

The duo also keeps the world abreast of their movements with a zine and a Wordpress blog. 

Most of the contributors/attendees/interested parties are young people from Glasgow and Edinburg. Though "nearby" they are still a distance from Egilsay as far as the distance between Chicago to Washington D.C. It can take a full day to reach this outpost via public transit. 

(clockwise from above left:) A polytunnel habitat. Reclaimed windows make a shelter for beans. The backseat of an abandoned vehicle becomes a bed for lettuce.

The bookshelf at the Edible Eglisay reflects the tenants interests. I read a pamphlet on why restaurants should be abolished and browse several books on growing one’s own produce.

When the sun is rising, rain begins to fall.  Rain and wind are near constants on these islands.

It is a myth that there are no trees in the Orkneys, but there are mostly grasses and brush. 

Where there are trees, they are low to the ground, swept back dramatically by the fierce winds. Only the cliffs and hills blunt the elements.

But the views are lovely. There is nothing quite like wandering the seaweed strewn shoreline with sandfleas nipping at your feet collecting shells in the full daylight of 4 am. 

Even in May, it is very cold, so we have a coal fire in the bunkhouse.

Alice fixes the coal fire!

The food is delicious. We take turns making meals. On the morning I'm preparing to leave, Alice makes up a huge steaming plate of wildcrafted mushrooms, potatoes and red cabbage as I write her a testimonial.

Your's Truly enjoying breakfast at Edible Egilsay.

Gardening starts every year around April 1, continues steadily until July, and then occurs periodically through the end of November. 

If you are looking for a place to hide out for a while and work hard, this is an unbelievable location with a supportive, "pitch-in" crew.

A 5 pound per night donation is advised. You can write the gang at edibleegilsay@hotmail.co.uk.